Monday, May 31, 2010
Saturday, May 15, 2010
Left me SPLIT in two….
After a restless night crossing the Adriatic, I’ve made it to Split, Croatia. The natural beauty of the Dalmatian coast is stunning, but I am still adjusting from the 6 month stint in Italy (my grazie means nothing here and it’s frustrating :)!
Next week I will make my way to Bulgaria for work by way of Bosnia & Herzegovina (stopping in Sarajevo) and Serbia (either Belgrade or Nis). Needless to say my Balkan leg of the trip has begun.
While touring Split, I was randomly guided toward the 2010 exhibition of World Press photos, showcasing the best images in photojournalism from the past year.
I gazed at the photographs in awe, and they seemed to summon a spectrum of emotions as I slowly made my way through the exhibit by way of fear, endearment, and fascination.
I left feeling inspired but weakened by reality, overwhelmed by my naiveté as a traveler in this great big world. It took this collection of pictures to make me realize that the bubble many of us live in actually floats.
As I enter a region that has suffered from recent war, I’m sure this will sink in even more.
XOXO
Ally
If you have the opportunity please see the exhibition for yourself.
You can also see the beauty of the Dalmatian Coast (including some photos from the exhibition), here:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=171394&id=693271938
A very special Hvala to my lovely host Pascal, I really appreciate your humble being for opening up your home and allowing a pleasant transition into Eastern Europe. Your generosity and kindness will not be forgotten and you’ve reminded me how wonderful it is to be part of the CS community!
A girl in RUINS
After a whirlwind Tuscan holiday, a la Americana (courtesy of Govi, Dustin, and his amazingly generous family!) I returned to Roma to meet May and Karen.
It was a nice visit that left me renewed and refocused (with cleaner clothing and shorter hair), ready to take on another 10 months or more of travel…..
Though my stomach was feeling similar to its surrounding antiquities (the terms heavy, worn, and ruin come to mind). I forced myself to endure, and thoroughly enjoy, the opportunity to eat at out nightly, experiencing Roman cuisine in a way that would have been impossible in the months preceding. I can also say that tripe has never tasted so good!
I now can navigate through most of the city center on autopilot. It is an amazing walking city and you can spend an entire day outside if the skies are clear, in fact I encourage it. All of the monuments and ruins can be seen walking the city center, and a guidebook or tour can facilitate the routes you choose. I do recommend seeing the inside of the coliseum and the Vatican museum for sure.
Here are a few sights that deserve honorable mention, if you would like any other recommendations (by budget traveler standards, of course) please let me know and I will send a more inclusive list!
Crypt of the Capuchin Monks
If there were anything I recommend as a must see in Rome, this is the place. A spectacle of eerie standards, the crypt, adorned with bones of monks and royalty in the most beautiful fashion, is incredible. Symbols and scenes depicting the crossing from life to death are all the more realistic when represented by human remains. The hard women at the entry desk are intimidating but add to the charm, and if you are genuinely interested will give you a wealth of information (in a way that makes you feel like how I imagine a schoolchild in catechism does). It is a worthwhile experience that will take about 30 minutes out of your day and 1 Euro out of your pocket. Go and give 2 Euros instead.
Aventine Hill
A peaceful picnicking spot, with a beautiful view of the city. Walking to it along the Circus Maximus also presents great photo opportunities of the ruins.
As for shopping, I do not do much personally for obvious reasons, but the Porta Portese market in Trastevere is the largest in Europe and an opportunity to experience the madness of a giant. The hustle and bustle down the main throughway is enhanced by shouts from the Napolitano, and other immigrant vendors, selling clothing of all sorts. This is where I obtained the now famous, and well documented, brown down jacket for one Euro, my winter savior and best purchase thus far (it lives on as a cat bed). You can spend a day browsing, or be immediately discouraged (because there is a lot of junk). If you are in search for treasure, take time and dig. The Trastevere zone is a worthwhile wandering neighborhood, and has good apperitivo and bars in the evening.
Basilica Santa Prassede (near Santa Maria Maggiore)-Amazing mosaics! Just go and see….
San Lorenzo district for music, art, cheap drinks and the occasional protest.
Café e Dolci
Dagnigno Bakery near Republica and the opera has an amazing pistachio cream! They specialize in Sicilian sweets and also have a selection of savory items to take away.
Forno Antico bakery Where via rippetto turns into via scorfa, has amazing biscotti and scafiogl, a Napolitano pastry filled with ricotta and candied citrus.
The famous Giolotti (near the Pantheon) and Millennium in the Prati district near the Musei Vaticani (if you like chocolate with pepperoncino).
Pizza!
Classic Roma- (touristy, yet tasty): Pizzeria da Baffeto
Quick n’ delicious- Antico forno in Campo di Fiori
Meglio- Dar Poeta (A tip: order for take away and eat on someone’s doorstep in the rain instead :)
See some more of ROMA here:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=171392&id=693271938
As a final thought, I realize, I am a very lucky girl. I am blessed and fortunate to have people that love and support me in my life. A million Grazies to May and Karen for the visit. I love you so much, you don’t even know. This adventure has made an impression on me and I hope it doesn’t frighten anyone to see what I am doing, or where I am going, or who I am becoming….I am excited to see what happens, and hope you are too! I promise not to disappoint.
XOXO,
Ally
Thank you also to Erica who gave me new ideas and new friendship. We will see each other soon; plans for an international feast are in the works! Un grande bacione, I hope you take time rest soon….