Amongst Balkan Giants

I sat in a bar in Thessaloniki, Greece with the Balkan ‘Mafia’, the only native English speaker, and realized whether I was there or not the group would carry on interacting in foreign tongue. The lingua franca continued to dominate road trip tunes and beachside conversation, woven with a mix of Serbo-Croation, Bulgarian, Greek and the occasional Duetch bit.

Amidst this collection of characters I realized how much I want to be able to fully communicate in a different language, and how lucky I am to be born a native English speaker. I reference this thought often as I consistently change countries and know one day my brain will deliver. Spero que oui.

Moral: Learn at least one other language. It’s good for you. If you don’t, travel to the Balkans you will not regret it.

TED...Spreading Genius

How did I not know of this site? Inspiration at your fingertips.

http://www.ted.com/

Left me SPLIT in two….

After a restless night crossing the Adriatic, I’ve made it to Split, Croatia. The natural beauty of the Dalmatian coast is stunning, but I am still adjusting from the 6 month stint in Italy (my grazie means nothing here and it’s frustrating :)!

Next week I will make my way to Bulgaria for work by way of Bosnia & Herzegovina (stopping in Sarajevo) and Serbia (either Belgrade or Nis). Needless to say my Balkan leg of the trip has begun.

While touring Split, I was randomly guided toward the 2010 exhibition of World Press photos, showcasing the best images in photojournalism from the past year.

I gazed at the photographs in awe, and they seemed to summon a spectrum of emotions as I slowly made my way through the exhibit by way of fear, endearment, and fascination.

I left feeling inspired but weakened by reality, overwhelmed by my naiveté as a traveler in this great big world. It took this collection of pictures to make me realize that the bubble many of us live in actually floats.

As I enter a region that has suffered from recent war, I’m sure this will sink in even more.

XOXO

Ally

If you have the opportunity please see the exhibition for yourself.

www.worldpressphoto.org

You can also see the beauty of the Dalmatian Coast (including some photos from the exhibition), here:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=171394&id=693271938

A very special Hvala to my lovely host Pascal, I really appreciate your humble being for opening up your home and allowing a pleasant transition into Eastern Europe. Your generosity and kindness will not be forgotten and you’ve reminded me how wonderful it is to be part of the CS community!

A girl in RUINS

After a whirlwind Tuscan holiday, a la Americana (courtesy of Govi, Dustin, and his amazingly generous family!) I returned to Roma to meet May and Karen.

It was a nice visit that left me renewed and refocused (with cleaner clothing and shorter hair), ready to take on another 10 months or more of travel…..

Though my stomach was feeling similar to its surrounding antiquities (the terms heavy, worn, and ruin come to mind). I forced myself to endure, and thoroughly enjoy, the opportunity to eat at out nightly, experiencing Roman cuisine in a way that would have been impossible in the months preceding. I can also say that tripe has never tasted so good!

I now can navigate through most of the city center on autopilot. It is an amazing walking city and you can spend an entire day outside if the skies are clear, in fact I encourage it. All of the monuments and ruins can be seen walking the city center, and a guidebook or tour can facilitate the routes you choose. I do recommend seeing the inside of the coliseum and the Vatican museum for sure.

Here are a few sights that deserve honorable mention, if you would like any other recommendations (by budget traveler standards, of course) please let me know and I will send a more inclusive list!

Crypt of the Capuchin Monks

If there were anything I recommend as a must see in Rome, this is the place. A spectacle of eerie standards, the crypt, adorned with bones of monks and royalty in the most beautiful fashion, is incredible. Symbols and scenes depicting the crossing from life to death are all the more realistic when represented by human remains. The hard women at the entry desk are intimidating but add to the charm, and if you are genuinely interested will give you a wealth of information (in a way that makes you feel like how I imagine a schoolchild in catechism does). It is a worthwhile experience that will take about 30 minutes out of your day and 1 Euro out of your pocket. Go and give 2 Euros instead.

Aventine Hill

A peaceful picnicking spot, with a beautiful view of the city. Walking to it along the Circus Maximus also presents great photo opportunities of the ruins.

As for shopping, I do not do much personally for obvious reasons, but the Porta Portese market in Trastevere is the largest in Europe and an opportunity to experience the madness of a giant. The hustle and bustle down the main throughway is enhanced by shouts from the Napolitano, and other immigrant vendors, selling clothing of all sorts. This is where I obtained the now famous, and well documented, brown down jacket for one Euro, my winter savior and best purchase thus far (it lives on as a cat bed). You can spend a day browsing, or be immediately discouraged (because there is a lot of junk). If you are in search for treasure, take time and dig. The Trastevere zone is a worthwhile wandering neighborhood, and has good apperitivo and bars in the evening.

Basilica Santa Prassede (near Santa Maria Maggiore)-Amazing mosaics! Just go and see….

San Lorenzo district for music, art, cheap drinks and the occasional protest.

Café e Dolci

Dagnigno Bakery near Republica and the opera has an amazing pistachio cream! They specialize in Sicilian sweets and also have a selection of savory items to take away.

Forno Antico bakery Where via rippetto turns into via scorfa, has amazing biscotti and scafiogl, a Napolitano pastry filled with ricotta and candied citrus.

The famous Giolotti (near the Pantheon) and Millennium in the Prati district near the Musei Vaticani (if you like chocolate with pepperoncino).

Pizza!

Classic Roma- (touristy, yet tasty): Pizzeria da Baffeto

Quick n’ delicious- Antico forno in Campo di Fiori

Meglio- Dar Poeta (A tip: order for take away and eat on someone’s doorstep in the rain instead :)

See some more of ROMA here:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=171392&id=693271938

As a final thought, I realize, I am a very lucky girl. I am blessed and fortunate to have people that love and support me in my life. A million Grazies to May and Karen for the visit. I love you so much, you don’t even know. This adventure has made an impression on me and I hope it doesn’t frighten anyone to see what I am doing, or where I am going, or who I am becoming….I am excited to see what happens, and hope you are too! I promise not to disappoint.

XOXO,

Ally

Thank you also to Erica who gave me new ideas and new friendship. We will see each other soon; plans for an international feast are in the works! Un grande bacione, I hope you take time rest soon….

To all the folks in La La Land; counting sheep is IN.

These are the kind of random events I have yet to find during my travels:

http://hammer.ucla.edu/programs/detail/program_id/496

All courtesy of one of my favorite organizations Machine Project, please check them out if you haven't already!

Awaiting the arrival.

After 9 months of being on the road I will soon have visitors, bringing an opportunity to request things I need or want from home. This is a close to impossible task, as the list fluctuates on a daily basis. Realistic and unrealistic requests are jotted down and erased, and then appear on the paper again. It is a difficult question, since there are only very specific things I cannot get here in Europe, and I have to think long and hard about what I am willing to carry around or ingest. Any suggestions?

While I scribble these lists, another more unattainable, and quasi-superficial one is accumulating in the back of my head that makes me realize what I really do miss. Before you read what is below I must express that, while I have little desire to return to the states, I struggle with feelings of longing for my family and friends all of the time. Especially those boys. There.

So, What DO I wish I had access to right now? May sound silly but…….

-Clay and his song writing self.

-A bathtub.

-Deodorant that makes your pits smell fresh and clean, and soap that actually works, without irritating your skin. Glad your not reading in smell-o-vision. Enough said.

-Taco trucks. The thought of a La Estrella taco prompts an insatiable hunger, no amount of pizza or pasta can tame. Oh chile, I miss you most. Daikokuya’s fried rice, and that psychedelic curry are runners up. Basically, I wish there was more gastronomic diversity at times.

-Pure unadulterated FUN. The type of FUN that I have only experienced with a certain group of people (you know who you are), and continue to search for as I encounter others. My nonsensical side takes over at times and I miss my other halves most when the wave attacks.

-Manicure/Pedicure and that once a year airbrush design by Tony at Lee’s on Fig…..you are not in my budget anymore, and it shows.

-The opportunity to hear live music nightly (LA, I love you for this!), open bars, and free movie screenings. I still get the invites in the mail, and do wish I could teleport every once in a while.

-Themed get-togethers and dinner parties. Spaghetti Western night may taste better in Italy, but where are the stacked televisions and ADD atmosphere? And what about those fabulous random art movements? That collective creativity is a lacking force in my environment at the moment, and I crave the energy.

-LBE. We must film a new video.

That’s all I can think of for now. The list will grow and shrink as I go along…….

XOXO

Ally

Adaptation.

The pauses lengthen as I continue this journey, posing some to question what I am exactly doing out there in this big world? Where to begin…..

For starters, some notes on Italy:

The only thing consistent in Italy is its beauty.

This is both good and bad for many reasons for me personally right now.

Then trains are late, and have random ticket checks. The weather is unpredictable. The dialects change from town to town, and looming fears force me to be cautious of whom I speak to…..

Stating these facts, my randomness fits perfectly here and I feel at home. It must be in my blood.

I’ve been around…..check out the photos to see for yourself

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=120325&id=693271938&l=8584473e75

Right now I am staying near a city called Sora on the border of Abruzzo and Lazio, in the village of Pescosolido.

I am helping to restore a series of abandoned homes that will be eventually connected, creating a bed and breakfast. There is a lot of work to be done, but the idea is great and everyday something improves and changes! Exciting.

I will be here for another couple weeks until friendly faces land on Italian soil (YAY!). Giovanna, I can’t wait to see you, and the moment I see my May and Karen, I believe I will cry….. I am desperately looking forward to those tears of joy!

Learning along the way…

Californians will have a hard time conforming to real, seasonal change.

The months of January and February forced me into a sort of hibernation. I really felt like a bear. I was freezing cold, and could not understand why I felt the way I did…. then, I realized I had never endured a true winter, especially one with no heating. Something to consider!

The slushy wet snow kept me in and I dreaded exiting the house. It would have been a very interesting psychological study, and I did learn to become comfortable in the kitchen at least.

Not all of the time was spent sleeping, however. I did manage to improve my Italian, ran a really lovely group for English conversation (I really miss them!), and attended a theater course for foreigners (Thank you Sarah darling!), among other things.

When it was all over, I realized it was the first time I was truly ALONE in all of my life…and I embraced the opportunity (being in a foreign country does add and extra element), and so everyone knows, I can live with myself just fine.

The arrival of Spring.

The most interesting part of this time of year was observing nature’s response to the change of season. As spring was breaking, I was not the only one waking. The contrasting differences were apparent, and most encounters displayed themselves while walking in the Tuscan mountains of Gafagnana. The snow was melting. The birds were singing, insects spawning, flowers blooming…PRIMAVERA! It was beautiful! For me, the fog was starting to clear, and I not unlike my feathered friends; I began to sing with delight at the thought that winter would soon be over. Sorry to the poor family I was living with at the time, I am sure they will never want to hear this American girl try to harmonize again! Alex in Wonderland I was.

I consider myself fortunate to have been in their home during this transition, it was a good place for me, under the Tuscan sun (and rain), with folks that helped to heal the strain. Thank you immensely La familglia Irlandese and that sweet, sweet Catalan.

Changes….turn and face the strange?

I want to state, I am NOT on Vacation. This is a lifestyle change.

I am dirty and smelly. I have strange reactions to the constantly changing environment and diet. I feel cold and damp, but you would never be able to tell by the dryness of my skin.

Physically I look a MESS, but something positive is brewing within, and for this, I will continue to endure the challenge.

The fact is, I am at peace with the idea that I am no longer ‘travelling’ but instead embracing a new way of life. I have become a modern day nomad and the wondrous web, leads my way. It is a bizarre concept......but I like it! I make no money and spend very little…and I learn so much! The challenges will only become greater as I prepare to head East, but I know I will be ready soon!

Feel like traveling?

Below are links to a list of helpful resources, which may guide you along the way. I encourage everyone to consider experiencing some sort of travel and assure you I have learned so much more about myself and others, and will continue to every day I am gone (not only work skills, but people skills, communication, language, building friendships, realizing you are alone and not alone at the same time, and learning to cope with yourself….the greatest challenge of all.) Almost all of my experiences have been positive thus far.

Help Exchange

www.helpx.net/

Workaway

www.workaway.info/

W.W.O.O.F (Worldwide Organization of Organic Farmers)

http://www.wwoof.org/

Couchsurfing

http://www.couchsurfing.org

Hospitality Club

http://www.hospitalityclub.org/

Roadsharing

http://www.roadsharing.com/

Digihitch

http://www.digihitch.com/

My advice to those craving adventure through exchange…… be intuitive. Know your likes, dislikes, and capabilities….you can always leave if a place does not fulfill your expectations, or suit your needs (however most of these things can be felt out during initial correspondence with the host, or helper for that matter). Make sure you know what you will be doing before you go (ie, hours, scope of work, meal situation) and ask questions ahead of time. You must subscribe to each of these sites individually, but I believe it is worth doing at least for helpex and workaway, (wwoof requires separate membership by region.) Realize that this is a form of travelling that is not for everyone, and do not expect to be on holiday!

Couchsurfing is incredible because it really is networks of like-minded people…do not use it as a hotel or dating service and you should be fine. Whew! There are other programs and resources of course, but at this point, you must allow your fingertips to do the work themselves :)

Wishing everyone inspiration in continuing our paths to happiness….

XOXO

Ally

And now in the spirit of the season, I give my thanks, because I am always thankful:

TO Casale: Cristian and his amazing family for housing and going out their way to make sure I was ok, Chantal for putting up with my scatterbrain self (your family is beautiful!), and Michael for making me laugh even though he may not have thought so. The lovely Micol and her family for your hospitality and friendship, I will test your mother’s recipe on a good man soon enough! The conversation hour folk….Mario and Marzia (who made me want to be a better person), Ambra and their family for giving me an authentic Piemontese experience. Katia and Lele and all the people at Pantagruel (http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1145043337&ref=ts ), it is a very special place, and if you ever go to Casale, please stop there. There are many others that go unnamed but have made a special mark in my travel. Oh and who can forget…..the Cantina Sociale.

Daniele…..Spero di vedervi in India!

Joicy and Julian (my Chilean twin), I love them, and feel like they are some of the few people in the world I could share a room with while travelling for the rest of my life. It is incredibly refreshing when you meet these types of friends. Lucky Me!

The Irlandese, and their energetic home…..Finn one day we must kill a bunny the right way….maybe somewhere far away. Ian, the Catalan you kept my spirits high as a kite, in the shit and out of it.

Anna della Austria, you are strong, independent, and inspirational…Thank you and good luck!

Grazie Mille Tutti, Cheers!