Marrakesh Express

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After being in Spain for two months the question of where I was going to go next started to come up frequently. This required intensive planning, or no planning at all. I opted to be spontaneous.

Italy? France? They were neighboring countries. Then there was Morocco. I never thought I would travel into the continent of Africa but since I was SO close, I just couldn’t resist. I had family friends (the lovely Murcia, aka Terri Merlo’s family!) to contact and found a travel partner who expressed interest in going to North Africa while working together on the finca…so all signs pointed to go! I was off on the road to Morocco!

I met my friend in Granada and we had a nice visit to the Alhambra. The architectural wonder was only a precursor for what was to come. The next day we were on the bus Algeciras, from there our destination was just a ferry away! We embarked and landed in Ceuta, the Spanish enclave of Morocco…then onto the border.

Borders crossings are very strange places and seem to harbor equally tense energies all-over the world. A tip when entering Morocco- if someone helps you through, make sure to tip them, we made the mistake of not having small change before crossing. Tips are most often expected for every small service given, at times even just for simple directions. Beware of children used a pawns. Once we made it through we were in a taxi to the Murcia’s home in M’Diq!

Our welcome to Morocco could not have been better, and I feel if I did not have the initial connection with people there, my experience would have been entirely different. I had an amazing time with the Murcias, and it was a real treat to have the comforts of family in such a foreign place. With this said, meeting them and getting a taste of living in Morocco was worth the trip in itself (reminiscing about family in the Bay Area was an added bonus!) After spending a few days together and taking a couple day trips, we set out on our own. A ferry, Buses, trains, and Moroccan taxis, mixed with Spanish French, English and Arabic languages somehow got us around the northern half of the country and back to Spain in one piece!

The brief but inclusive trip went as follows:

Ceuta-M’Diq-Tetouan-Chefchaouen- Tangier-Marekesh- Meknes- Fez

Tetoan’s windy medina was our first introduction to the souks. These local shops serve as little cameos, peeking into the lives of the medina dwellers. Small rooms were full of textiles, spices, and other goods that covered every inch of space, leaving little room for the shopkeeper to take a nap or wave you in for a visit. On our way home we stopped at the beach and enjoyed a beautiful sunset, singing all the way home.

My interest in agriculture was indulged the next day on our way to Chefchaouen when we pulled off the road to visit a local farm. I was pleasantly surprised when the farmer allowed me to plow his field. He cultivated the land in a traditional way using mule power to pull a large blade through the small plot he was planning to plant turnips on. It was less efficient but surprisingly effective. When I embarrassed myself enough, we headed back on the windy road to Chefchaouen. The town is situated at the foot of the mountains and is beautiful. There is a very relaxed sense about the village and the pale blue wash on the walls creates a soothing atmosphere for wandering. On our way home we had a bit of a mix up that involved the police, and provided more than enough entertainment for the evening.

Tangier was our first destination without guidance. We ended up walking the entire day exploring the city and taking in the beautiful view of the sea from the Kasbah. The markets in Tangier were the best I had seen on the trip. Food was displayed in a way that made you want to buy, and the colors and smells made if hard to resist. At night, when making our way to catch the overnight train to Marrakesh we happened upon another set of indoor food stalls that were dark and dingier. There were chickens being sold by young boys and cafes filled with shady characters. It enticed me in a way I can’t explain, I was drawn to the darkness. We took an overnight train to Marrakesh and made the mistake of purchasing a second-class ticket. The hard plastic seating was similar to the muni bus and was extremely uncomfortable for traveling nine hours. On the platform I had an unfortunate experience with a religious extremist, that ended well but made me a bit uncomfortable.

When we arrived to Marrakesh sore and tired, we dove right in finding a hostel that was extremely cheap in a central location. My advice would be to ease into Marrakesh, it is very touristy and I think it can give you a bad first impression, but it is filled with such life! With this said I think it is a must see, especially if you combine your visit with day trips to the villages surrounding. I stayed right in the heart of the old town near the famous Djeema El Fna Square. The square, which is rather dull during the day, turns in to a spectacle at night, filled with steaming food stalls and street performers. Circles of people stand watching snake charmers, contortionists, and other strange talents. Food raging from snails to goat’s head is prepared by a number of men in crisp white. The hassling is unbearable in the stalls which makes it easier to take a seat at the first stall that seems decent, but I would advise to take a quick look see what type of food you fancy before settling down just anywhere. Juice stalls are good meeting points if you get lost and provide a refreshing pick me up.

The Hamam Experince- A trip to the local hammam (or public bath) serves a backpacker well, and also gives an opportunity to immerse yourself in the culture! An oasis for women in the area, the bathhouse serves as a social space. It is also one of the only places where you have a chance to meet local women, and really reflect on our cultural differences. The workers in a restaurant directed me to an older hammam and once inside I was instructed by an old woman to strip down and wash up. It was wild. For a mere 60dh (around $7 US), the treatment includes access to the bath, a very intense scrub, a thorough washing and massage. I was first told to rinse off and enter a dark and steamy chamber to soften up I suppose, while my lady scrubbed another bather. Echoes and chatter roared through the concrete vault, and being face down I could only rely on few senses. It was a strange atmosphere that conjured similarities to what I believe Chinese water torture would be like in prison. A call to prayer sounds and a neighboring mosque fills the space with devotion creating a hauntingly beautiful atmosphere. After the steam I was scrubbed clean and washed. I left squeaky, clean feeling and like a newborn baby, not knowing what to think of the experience, but glowing nonetheless.

Some other sights I would recommend: Garden Marjorelle, The museum-Ben Youssef-mosque pass, Having a drink overlooking the giant storks nests atop the palace’s ruins at kozybar, Koutoubia Mosque, the Kasbah (saddian toumbs), try all of the foods, the spices give wonderful favor and aromas!

In Marrakesh particularly, the constant harassment when you’re a woman alone, and questioning when your partnered, would lead me to advise against Moroccan honeymoons, but recommend a travel partner…all of your true colors show when you’re immersed in such intensity so choose your company wisely (keep in mind I was traveling on an extremely tight budget, which adds to the frustration). I did wear a band on my ring finger to avoid further bother.

After spending two full days in Marrakesh we felt it was enough. We tried to book a bus to Fez, but it was full. The next bus went to Meknes at 2 am. We luckily got the last two spaces and since we now had the day to spare, asked our hostel manager Mohammed about taking a day trip. He quickly set up with a friend of his to drive us to the Ourika Valley, home to a series Berber Villages about 45 minutes outside of the city. The villages produce many unique textiles and natural products, and the farms and mills were impressive. Setti Fatma was the furthest village on our route and we hired a local guide to take us up into the mountains to see the seven cascades in the Big Atlas Mountains. On our way to the seventh and highest waterfall we encountered monkeys and snacked under their walnut tree, families howling at us as we cracked nuts and went on our way. It was a great break from the city…and the fresh mountain air was much needed.

My day in Meknes gave time to rest from the high-energy environment of Marrakesh. I saw a beautiful Riad and took the opportunity to catch up with writing in the peaceful garden. The sunset from the hostel rooftop was a sight, completed by the call to prayer ringing throughout the city. I really enjoyed myself there, and inquired about their school of agriculture……who is to say if I will return in the future?

Fes is the land artisan crafts, beautiful pottery, leather, and other goods adorn the walls of shops and restaurants. The windy maze-like medina is one of the oldest in Morocco, and it is very difficult to navigate through the series of narrow streets, tempting you to hire a guide. If you do, be cautious, at times they are genuine, but many just want to make a quick buck and can leave you stranded, far from your hostel.

A visit to the tanneries is a smelly but rewarding experience. The seemingly archaic methods of making leather painstakingly produces the most beautiful goods I had seen. The skins (of sheep, goat, cow, and camel, in range of strength) are sent from slaughter outside of the city, rinsed, soaked in pigeon droppings, cured and cleaned before the dying process begins. The natural dyes range from ground amethysts and poppies, which produce brilliant purples and reds, to hand dyed saffron resulting in a bold beautiful yellow. At the end of the tour you are allowed to see the artisans at work, making shoes, pouffies (bean bag seats), and bags, which you can purchase before exiting.

Observing daily life in the medina was what I enjoyed most about my visit. From children doing schoolwork on blackboards on the walls outside of their homes to motorcycles whizzing through the narrow streets, at times replaced by mules pulling carts. Taking in beautiful architecture and intricate wood and textile work that adorns the surrounding buildings, viewing the bright jalabas that mysteriously cloak most women, and devouring incredible street food full of flavors are an indication that you’re far from home. Overall, the trip was wonderful; I really would have missed out had I not taken the chance to visit. I would love to go further south into the Sahara next time, and am excited to return. Thank you to the Murcias for opening up your home and sharing your beautiful culture with me, my trip would not have been as amazing without you. XOXO